Israel: Day Seven

Old Jerusalem. This ancient walled city is quite small, only 220 acres (about one square kilometer). It is divided into four sections: the Jewish Quarter, Muslim Quarter, Armenian Quarter and Christian Quarter. The Muslim Quarter is by far the largest section. It contains the focal point of the city: the Temple Mount, where the Jewish Temple once stood -- and where the Dome of the Rock now stands.

Denise feeling very protected in the Western Wall plaza

We entered the Old City through the Dung Gate. This put us in the Jewish Quarter and near the Western Wall, our first stop. Also known as the Wailing Wall, it is one of King Herod the Great’s original 1st century retaining walls that enclosed the former Jewish Temple. It is the section of the wall closest to the Temple Mount.

Entering the Old City through the Dung Gate

Map of Old Jerusalem

The Western Wall is divided into the men's section and the women's section. Sure enough, people were wailing -- some louder than others. One gentleman, wearing a phylactery on his head, wailed exceptionally loud and for a long time. I think he was wailing when we left.

Why are the Jewish people wailing at this wall? The Temple was destroyed by the Romans in 70 A.D. and never rebuilt, so the Jews mourn the loss. The wailing is a Jewish form of prayer, and most effective nearest the Holy of Holies, but not too close. Jews are forbidden by Torah Law to go beyond the Western Wall because that would bring them too close to the Temple Mount, where the Holy of Holies is. The Muslims built the current Dome of the Rock over the Temple Mount in 692 A.D., which may contribute to the grieving of the Jews.

Western temple wall to left. Southern wall to right.

We then took an underground tour of the Western Wall tunnels, which gave us a fascinating look at the huge foundation stones of Herod's wall. The largest stone is 14 meters wide, 4 meters tall and 600 tons. The tunnels actually get you closer to the Holy of Holies than the Wailing Wall. There's a special place in the tunnels, closest to the Holy of Holies, that is designated for women.

Western Wall

After the tunnels, we visited the Pools of Bethesda, where Jesus healed the man who had been an invalid 38 years. These are considered to be the actual Pools of Bethesda. Nothing "traditional" about them. Archaeologists discovered them in the 19th century and recognized that they matched the pools mentioned in John's Gospel. They are several feet below ground level, so you must look down into the excavated area.

Next, we visited the Church of Saint Anne, a Roman Catholic church, located near the Pools of Bethesda. The Romanesque-style church, built around 1130 AD, commemorates Mary’s mother, Anna. Known for it’s amazing acoustics, the church is a destination for soloists and choirs. Our group experienced these acoustics while slowly singing, with frequent pauses for effect, “Amazing Grace” and “Alleluia.”

Women's Wailing Wall

Women's Wailing Wall 

Prayers stuffed between stones in Western Wall

Near the Church of Saint Anne, we began the Via Dolorosa, which means "Way of Sorrows." The Via Dolorosa is a pilgrim’s path that highlights 14 stages of Christ’s sufferings, including where He was sentenced, carried the cross, was crucified, entombed and resurrected. These fourteen “Stations of the Cross” are located throughout Old Jerusalem. The Via Dolorosa is not the precise path Christ took. Rather, it's a traditional route. The real path does exist somewhere in Old Jerusalem, but is several feet underground.

Men's Wailing Wall

The grand finale of the Via Dolorosa is the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, a highly possible location of Christ’s crucifixion, entombment and resurrection. Like Bethlehem's Church of the Nativity, the main entrance is very low -- built to prevent invaders on horses. Four locations are of note: where Christ was nailed to the cross, Golgotha where He was crucified, the Stone of Anointment where His body was laid (a recent tradition, the stone brought in in 1810), and the Aedicule that contains the sepulcher where Christ was entombed.

Entering Western Wall tunnels with Yarmulke

The following is a brief history of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, as well as some arguments that make this a "highly possible" location where Jesus was crucified, entombed and resurrected. In 325 A.D., Macarius, Bishop of Jerusalem, urged Emperor Constantine, at the Council of Nicea, to destroy former Emperor Hadrian’s pagan temple to Venus, which was (according to tradition) built over Christ’s tomb in 135 A.D.

In 326 A.D., Constantine’s mother, Helena, visited Jerusalem and was told that Hadrian’s pagan temple covered Christ’s tomb. Eusebius, Constantine’s biographer (339 A.D.), writes in detail about how Constantine zealously destroyed the pagan temple, unearthed and located Christ’s tomb, and built a lavish church around it.

This location meets the Biblical description that places Golgotha near the tomb -- both within the same garden (John 19:41). In Christ’s day it was located just outside the city, per Biblical description. First century tombs have indeed been discovered here, as well as the type of soil befitting a garden.

Closest allowable spot to Holy of Holies

Massive W. Wall base stones in tunnel

The current walls around the old city, built about 400 years ago, enlarged the city to include the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.

The church complex is shared by Catholics, Greek Orthodox, Armenians, Syrians and Copts. Abyssinians occupy part of the roof. Rights to the tomb are divided between Eastern Orthodox, Roman Catholic, and Armenian Apostolic churches. The Church of the Holy Sepulcher is the grand finale of the Via Dolorosa, including stations 10 through 14.

Pools of Bethesda

Church of Saint Anne

Old Jerusalem is a maze of narrow streets. It's almost claustrophobic. We had lunch in the center of the Jewish Quarter, a nice, open area where we could relax without feeling confined. It was a nice place to people watch.

Pilgrims along the Via Dolorosa

Not that Old Jerusalem is like Disneyland, but there are a lot of sights to see within a small geographic area. The Dome of the Rock was the next "ride," and a long line awaited us. The Muslim custodians allow visits for a limited time, so you hope to get in before the cutoff time. It must have been in the high 80s because I struggled with the heat as the line slowly moved. We made it past a security checkpoint and shuffled up a ramp to an entrance near the top of the Western Wall. We barely got through the temple wall into the Temple Mount plaza before the cutoff time. It was an eerie feeling, knowing that we stood where devout Jews are not allowed to stand. The Holy of Holies was just a stone's throw away.

Stations of the Cross plus Christ's resurrection 

There it was before us, that big golden dome -- no gates or walls between it and us. Unfortunately, before we had a chance to walk up the wide, stone stairway to the dome, an intense, Muslim security guard told us to leave, as in "Now!" I actually got a bit scared as our group hustled toward the exit. Oh, well. We still got close and they wouldn't have allowed us inside the dome anyway, unless we were Muslims.

After leaving the Dome of the Rock "plaza," we revisited the Wailing Wall. We had nearly an hour to kill, so we people-watched and I took my favorite photo of the trip: Denise standing in the midst of several armed Israeli troops. Nice. Evidently, some sort of military exercise was taking place near the Western Wall; troops were everywhere.

Vendors within the Old City

Nice fabrics for sale

Modern-day Templar Knights?

Via Dolorosa: Jesus carries His cross

We then left the Old City. Just outside the city walls, we visited and walked on the Southern Steps. These are a wide expanse of stone steps leading to the southern entrance of the Temple Mount plaza. The entrance is sealed off. The top of the gray dome of the El-Aqsa Mosque is visible beyond the high southern wall. The significant thing about the Southern Steps is that they date before the time of Christ. Jesus and His disciples would have used them whenever they visited the Jewish Temple. This is "certain," and it was really cool to actually walk where Jesus walked.

Pilgrim prayer along Via Dolorosa

Go Ducks!

I said goodbye to Old Jerusalem and joined the group. We walked down a street towards the Kidron Valley, past an area called the City of David.

Dome of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher

Entering the Church of the Holy Sepulcher

In the valley, we visited the actual Pool of Siloam, where, in John's Gospel, Jesus healed a blind man in an unusual manner. The Lord spit on the ground and made mud, which He place on the blind man's eyes. Half of the pool was excavated in 2005, so this is a very recent archaeological discovery. The Greek Orthodox Church has jurisdiction over the other half and they have not allowed excavation. Is this really the same Pool of Siloam from Jesus' day? Yes.

Excited Ethiopian Orthodox cleric

And so ended our visit to Old Jerusalem. Come back next week and read about the eighth and final day of our awesome tour of Israel.

Church of the Holy Sepulcher entrance #2

Ceiling of Church of the Holy Sepulcher

Where Jesus was nailed to the cross

Golgotha: where Christ was crucified

Possible spot where Jesus was crucified

Stone of Anointment where Christ's body was placed

Mosaic of the dead Christ just after crucifixion 

Entrance to the tomb, where Christ was buried

Interesting people in Jewish Quarter

Center of Jewish Quarter where we ate lunch

Nice mugshot in Jewish Quarter

Perspective photo. Western Wall. Ramp leading to Temple Mount and Dome of the Rock

Waiting in line to see Dome of the Rock. Read the warning.

Israeli security on the ramp leading to the Dome of the Rock

Dome of the Rock

Closest we got to the Dome of the Rock

Model of ancient Jewish Temple where today's Dome of the Rock stands. (On display at the Israel Museum)

Cute kids near Western Wall plaza

Near City of David

Pool of Siloam near Kidron Valley

Israel: Day Six

Palm Sunday Walk. Dome of the Rock in distance. Denise and my shadow.

Our route in red. National borders in green.

Our group of 28 boarded the tour bus and left the Jerusalem hotel at 7:40 AM. We headed to the top of the Mount of Olives, where we unloaded, stretched a bit and began our descent, on foot, to the Kidron Valley below.

Known as the Palm Sunday Walk, we would follow a similar path Jesus took when He descended the Mt. of Olives and rode a donkey into Jerusalem (fulfilling the prophecy from Zechariah 9:9). This is known as Christ's Triumphal Entry. The crowds, recognizing Him as the messianic King, cheered and threw palm branches on His path. They wrongly assumed He was setting up an earthly kingdom. But Jesus would later say, "My Kingdom is not of this world." In less than a week, early Friday morning, these same crowds would yell for Pilate to crucify Him. Their wish would be granted that very day.

The Mount of Olives overlooks Jerusalem to the west and the Judean Desert to the east. It was a resting place for travelers entering Jerusalem. Significant events of Jesus’ life occurred here, such as: the start of His triumphal “Palm Sunday” entry into Jerusalem, His agonizing prayer in Gethsemane, His arrest, and His ascension into heaven. Many believe Jesus second coming will occur at the same spot as His ascension, based on Acts 1:11 ESV,  “Men of Galilee, why do you stand looking into heaven? This Jesus, who was taken up from you into heaven, will come in the same way as you saw him go into heaven.”

Donkey rides at top of Mt. of Olives.

To me, the most visually striking thing about the Mt. of Olives is the huge number of tombs, about 150,000, covering the hillside. They are about coffin-size and likely made of Jerusalem limestone. Out of respect for the dead, people place small rocks on the tombs. One source mentions that the Mt. of Olives is the prime location for burial because Jews believe the Messiah will arrive there to resurrect the dead. They may be right.

Near the base of the Mt. of Olives, our tour group stopped at the traditional Garden of Gethsemane, a gated park abounding with many old olive trees, some perhaps 900 years old. Gethsemane means “oil press,” referring to the oil pressed from the olives. Jesus and his disciples often met there. (John 18:2).

Denise with another stranger

The garden is operated by the Franciscan Order. It is a serene, quiet and somber place, where visitors contemplate Christ's agonizing prayers to God, moments before His arrest. "My father, if it be possible, let this cup pass from me; nevertheless, not as I will, but as you will." (Mat. 26:39). Luke records that Christ was so distraught that His sweat was like blood. Our visit to Gethsemane was a time for quiet prayer and reflection. Some of us shed tears as we tried to comprehend the intense sorrow Christ felt the night before His crucifixion.

From Gethsemane, we visited the nearby Church of All Nations (AKA Church of Gethsemane and The Basilica of the Agony), also run by the Franciscans.

1000s of tombs on Mt. of Olive's west slope. Kidron Valley below. Old Jerusalem and Dome of the Rock beyond.

Franciscan inside Gethsemane entrance

At the bottom of the Mount of Olives, we crossed the Kidron Valley to the area of Mt. Zion, not far from the gates to Old Jerusalem. Things got confusing, because we began zigzagging between old buildings and churches, ending up in the Last Supper Room, located above the Tomb of David and near Dormition Abbey (got your bearings?). This is a "traditional" room of the last supper, though there's little evidence to support its authenticity.

Denise photographs gnarly Olive trunk in Gethsemane

From there, we followed tour guide Harrison Cohen through the labyrinth of interconnected buildings, narrow streets and dark passageways (seemed like it) to the fascinating Church of St. Peter in Gallicantu (meaning "cock crow" in Latin). This church is built over the traditional and highly possible location where, the night before his crucifixion, Jesus stood trial before the high priest Caiaphas and the chief priests, scribes and elders. A guardroom and prisoner’s cell, hewn out of bedrock, exist below. Jesus would have been lowered by rope through a narrow shaft into the small cell, where he spent the night before his crucifixion. It is known as the “Sacred Pit” or “Christ’s Prison.” We were able to stand inside the Sacred Pit -- a somber and chilling experience.

Really old, fat olive tree near Church of All Nations

The modern Church of St. Peter in Gallicantu (built 1932), is a Catholic church commemorating Peter’s three denials, which occurred in the courtyard of Caiaphas’s house. The church is located just outside of Old Jerusalem, near the Zion Gate.

Near Gallicantu, we saw actual 1st century steps that descend from Mt. Zion to the Kidron Valley. It is nearly certain that Jesus and his disciples would have used these steps whenever they walked between the Mt. of Olives and Old Jerusalem.

Church of All Nations

Late in the morning we boarded the tour bus near the Kidron Valley and headed for Bethlehem. We'd return to Jerusalem at the end of the day. The bus paused at a checkpoint and we entered Palestinian territory. Harrison stayed in Jerusalem and we picked up a temporary guide, a Palestinian Christian named Isaac.

Really good bread near Mt. Zion

Our group got off the bus and followed Isaac through busy downtown Bethlehem -- our destination being the Church of the Nativity. I felt a little uneasy walking the 1/2 mile or so through Palestinian territory, but it was interesting looking at the people, shops, Arabic culture, etc. We passed by an armed security guard standing proudly in front of a large poster of Yasser Arafat, the leader of the PLO through much of the late 20th century.

The Church of the Nativity is not beautiful from the outside and the tiny entrance is only noticeable because of the long lines in front of it. One must stoop over to get through entrance. They made it small as a security measure to prevent enemy horses and equipment from entering.

Church of St. Peter in Gallicantu

To Christ's prison

Where Jesus imprisoned the night before His crucifixion

The Church of the Nativity, the oldest church in the Holy Land, was built above a cave (the Grotto) where Jesus was very possibly, perhaps "probably" born. What is the evidence? Christian apologist, Justin Martyr (100-165 A.D.), wrote about “a certain cave” where Jesus was born. Also, Origen  (185-254 A.D.), wrote that this particular cave was considered by many to be Christ’s birthplace. In 327 A.D., Emperor Constantine’s mother, Helena, ordered the construction of the first church here. So, there is compelling early tradition supporting the authenticity of this site.

The original church was completed in 339 AD under commission of Emperor Constantine. It was destroyed by fire in the 6th century and rebuilt like the original in 565 AD by Byzantine Emperor Justinian. When the Persians invaded in 614 AD, they did not destroy the church. Legend has it that when the invaders saw the beautiful mosaics of the three wise men from the east in Persian clothing, they opted against destroying the church. Therefore, it is the oldest existing Christian church in Israel.

1st century steps used by Christ and Apostles in Mt. Zion

Currently, the Church of the Nativity is owned/operated by three churches: Greek Orthodox, Armenian Orthodox and Roman Catholic. It is overly decorated inside to the point of gaudiness. Chandeliers and other ornaments, donated by Russian Tzars, etc., hang from the high-raftered ceiling. Large beams of light shine across the high ceiling. The walls are covered with paintings, mosaics, crosses, tapestries, religious paraphernalia, and any shiny trinket you can imagine. Evidently the designers have never heard the advice: "Less is more."

Palestinian security in Bethlehem

Downtown Bethlehem

So, the main attraction inside of this church is the Grotto, where Christ was quite possibly born. It is below ground level, and one must wait in a long line to enter. You walk down a narrow, stone stairway leading to the caves. The exact spot of Christ's birth is marked by a metal, 14-point star with clear glass in the middle. The star is embedded in a marble slab. Ornate, candle-lit lanterns hang above it. Also located in the Grotto, a few feet from the birth spot, is the manger, where the newborn Christ was placed.

Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem

Okay, I actually got teary eyed when I saw the birth place. I thought, "Wow, Jesus may have actually been born in this exact spot." It was the most emotional I got during the Israel trip. Would someone hand me a tissue?

We then traveled just outside of Bethlehem to the Shepherds' Fields. This is the traditional area where the shepherds were visited by an angel who announced the birth of the “Savior, who is the Messiah, the Lord.” (Luke 2:8-18). A beautiful chaple stands there. Inside are wonderful paintings depicting the shepherds and the angelic visitor.

Tiny entrance to Church of the Nativity

Newer sanctuary in Church of the Nativity

And so ended day six. Next week's post (day seven) will focus on Old Jerusalem, which includes the Western Wall, Dome of the Rock (Temple Mount), Via Dolrosa, Church of the Holy Sepulcher, and more.

Light beams across ceiling

Way much ornamentation near entry to Christ's birthplace

Line to see Christ's birthplace

Stairway leading to cave of Christ's birth

Was Jesus actually born in this spot?

Compelling tradition since the 2nd century makes this the most likely spot (beneath star) where Jesus was born.

Location of manger where baby Jesus placed

Catholic chapel at Shepherds' Fields near Bethlehem

Painting in chapel: Shepherds with Star of Bethlehem above

Angel announcing Christ's birth

Shepherds behold the Christ child

Denise found this really cool species of praying mantis at Shepherds' Fields