Views Lofty and Low: Israel Trip: Day Three

Denise and Tom afloat on the Sea of Galilee

Denise and I awoke just after 6 AM and looked out our hotel balcony at the sun rising over the Sea of Galilee. We got dressed, ate breakfast with the tour group and hustled down to the docks. We boarded a boat just the right size for the 28 of us and sailed away. Distracted by the beautiful sea, I failed to notice the crew raising the U.S. flag right behind me. The U.S. national anthem jarred me back to reality and I noticed every one, hands on hearts, staring at the flag (and me). I was embarrassed. Oh well.

Red lines bus route. Green lines national borders.

As the boat chugged away, one of the young pastors, Matisse, gave a short message about fear. He presented two questions: Is my faith in Christ fearless? And, what fear is Jesus calling me to forsake? Matisse read the Biblical passage about Jesus walking on the water during a storm. The disciples were in a boat, afraid, when they saw Jesus on the water. Peter got up the nerve to join Jesus, but then he (Peter) became afraid and began to sink. Of course, Jesus rescued him. Matisse finished by praying that God would help us overcome our fears.

Sunrise on the Sea of Galilee

I asked the other young pastor, Jeremy, to point out what part of the Sea of Galilee Jesus would have walked on. He pointed out the general area. I quickly took three panoramic photos to capture the location of the miracle.

The Sea of Galilee is actually a fresh-water lake, 13 miles long by 7 miles wide. By this sea, Jesus chose his first disciples, healed the sick, and preached about the Kingdom of God. Matthew 14:29-33 describes the miracle of Jesus and Peter walking on water: “So Peter got out of the boat and walked on the water and came to Jesus. But when he saw the wind, he was afraid, and beginning to sink he cried out, ‘Lord, save me.’ Jesus immediately reached out his hand and took hold of him, saying to him, ‘O you of little faith, why did you doubt?’ And when they got into the boat, the wind ceased. And those in the boat worshiped him, saying, ‘Truly you are the Son of God.’”

Our tour group happily afloat on the sea

The invigorating boat ride ended and we walked to the Yigal Allon Centre (Man in the Galilee Museum). The significant thing about this museum is an ancient fishing boat, on display, from the 1st century (when Jesus was alive). It was discovered in 1986 on the NW shore. After a 7-year chemical preservation process, it was ready for display at the museum.

From the museum, we boarded the bus and headed to the northern tip of Israel where we would visit the towns of Dan and Caesarea Philippi. On the way, we passed through the Golan Heights, near the Syrian border (see map). In modern history, Israel captured and occupied most of the Golan Heights from Syria during the 1967 Six-Day War. As a child, I remember the Golan Heights regularly mentioned in the national news, due to the continual conflicts that occurred there up until Israel annexed it in 1981. To this day, Syria disputes the annexation.

The ancient 1st century Galilee boat at the museum

Nice view from the boat

We traveled to Dan at the northern tip of Israel, near the Lebanon border. We hiked a short distance up a trail along the Dan Stream, a source for the Sea of Galilee. The hike ended at a high vista, where we visited the ruins of a pagan temple mentioned in the Bible. It is "very certain" that this is the actual temple mentioned in 1 Kings. Dan is one of two locations where Jeroboam, the first King of Israel (after its split with Judah), built a temple on a high place, where he offered sacrifices to a golden calf. He placed a second golden calf in Bethel. This was an abomination to God, who sent “a man of God” to confront Jeroboam about the pagan temples (1 Kings 13:1-3).

Beyond the vista, to the north, between the Israel and Lebanon border, is a no-man's land, an area full of land mines. Part of the Six-Day War occurred there. The Six-Day War happened in June 1967, when Israel won significant military victories against Egypt, Syria and Jordan, thus securing large amounts of territory -- Gaza Strip, Sinai Peninsula, West Bank, East Jerusalem, and the Golan Heights.

Dan Stream Trail

We boarded the bus and traveled a short distance to Caesarea Philippi, known in ancient times for its long history of idol worship and paganism, including the worship of: Baal; the Greek god Pan; and Caesar. Herod the Great built a temple here, exalting Caesar Augustus. Philippi refers to Herod the Great’s son Philip. The focal point of the ancient city was the Banias Springs, where shrines to various pagan gods still exist, including a temple dedicated to Pan. The Banias stream is a source of the Jordan River.

Within this milieu of idol worship and altars to pagan gods, it’s curious that Jesus brought his disciples here and prodded them with the following dialogue: “Who do people say the Son of Man is?” And they said, “Some say John the Baptist, others say Elijah, and others Jeremiah or one of the prophets.” He said to them, “But who do you say that I am?” Simon Peter replied, “You are the Christ, the Son of the living God.” And Jesus answered him, “Blessed are you, Simon Bar-Jonah! For flesh and blood has not revealed this to you, but my Father who is in heaven.” (Matthew 16:13-17 ESV).

Actual ruins of pagan temple mentioned in 1 Kings

From Caesarea Philippi, we headed south back toward the Sea of Galilee. En route, we again passed through the Golan Heights. My ears popped due to the elevation.

We stop at Capernaum, located on the northwestern shore of the Sea of Galilee. Currently, the Franciscans control and operate the gated village, containing the foundation ruins of the ancient synagogue where Jesus taught.

Tank from the 6-Day War in Dan

Early in his public ministry, Jesus moved from Nazareth to Capernaum, which became his new home, a fulfillment of prophecy. (Matt. 4:13-16 ESV). In Capernaum, Jesus called disciples, healed the sick, preached and cast out demons. He raised the synagogue ruler’s daughter from the dead. (Mark 5:38-42 ESV).

Today, a fourth-century limestone synagogue (the White Synagogue) stands over the black basalt foundation of the first-century synagogue where Jesus taught. It is "very certain" that this black basalt foundation is part of the actual synagogue where Jesus preached.

Mine field no-man's land beyond wall, near Lebanese border

Near the synagogue is the traditional site of the apostle Peter’s home, where Jesus stayed. After the 1st century, it evolved into a Christian meeting place and house church. In about 381-395 A.D., a Spanish nun, Ageria, wrote, “And in Capernaum, what is more, the house of the prince of the apostles [Peter] has been turned into a church, leaving its original walls however quite unchanged.” The current octagonal structure is a 5th century Byzantine church with Peter’s house preserved in the center. I'd rank it as "plausible" that this truly was Peter's home. The evidence is strictly from tradition.

Temple of Pan ruins in Caesarea Philippi

Pan the man goat god

Ornate ancient column in Caesarea Philippi

Our group then traveled a short distance to the scenic Mount of Beatitudes, located on a hillside overlooking the Sea of Galilee. This beautiful Catholic monastery, built in 1938 for a Franciscan order of nuns, stands here, surrounded by tranquil gardens. It is the traditional location where the Catholic church believes Jesus preached the Sermon on the Mount. Hey, it's possible! Jesus preached the sermon somewhere in this area. A 4th century Byzantine church existed downhill from the present monastery.

Pastor Matisse and his wife in Pan's temple

Guide Harrison Cohen at Capernaum synagogue. Hi Denise!

It seems appropriate to end this blog post with the actual Beatitudes of Jesus from Matthew 6:1-11 ESV:
Seeing the crowds, he went up on the mountain, and when he sat down, his disciples came to him. And he opened his mouth and taught them, saying: “Blessed are the poor in spirit, for theirs is the kingdom of heaven. Blessed are those who mourn, for they shall be comforted. Blessed are the meek, for they shall inherit the earth. Blessed are those who hunger and thirst for righteousness, for they shall be satisfied. Blessed are the merciful, for they shall receive mercy. Blessed are the pure in heart, for they shall see God. Blessed are the peacemakers, for they shall be called sons of God. Blessed are those who are persecuted for righteousness’ sake, for theirs is the kingdom of heaven. Blessed are you when others revile you and persecute you and utter all kinds of evil against you falsely on my account. Rejoice and be glad, for your reward is great in heaven, for so they persecuted the prophets who were before you.”