Views Lofty and Low: Israel: Day Six

Palm Sunday Walk. Dome of the Rock in distance. Denise and my shadow.

Our route in red. National borders in green.

Our group of 28 boarded the tour bus and left the Jerusalem hotel at 7:40 AM. We headed to the top of the Mount of Olives, where we unloaded, stretched a bit and began our descent, on foot, to the Kidron Valley below.

Known as the Palm Sunday Walk, we would follow a similar path Jesus took when He descended the Mt. of Olives and rode a donkey into Jerusalem (fulfilling the prophecy from Zechariah 9:9). This is known as Christ's Triumphal Entry. The crowds, recognizing Him as the messianic King, cheered and threw palm branches on His path. They wrongly assumed He was setting up an earthly kingdom. But Jesus would later say, "My Kingdom is not of this world." In less than a week, early Friday morning, these same crowds would yell for Pilate to crucify Him. Their wish would be granted that very day.

The Mount of Olives overlooks Jerusalem to the west and the Judean Desert to the east. It was a resting place for travelers entering Jerusalem. Significant events of Jesus’ life occurred here, such as: the start of His triumphal “Palm Sunday” entry into Jerusalem, His agonizing prayer in Gethsemane, His arrest, and His ascension into heaven. Many believe Jesus second coming will occur at the same spot as His ascension, based on Acts 1:11 ESV, “Men of Galilee, why do you stand looking into heaven? This Jesus, who was taken up from you into heaven, will come in the same way as you saw him go into heaven.”

Donkey rides at top of Mt. of Olives.

To me, the most visually striking thing about the Mt. of Olives is the huge number of tombs, about 150,000, covering the hillside. They are about coffin-size and likely made of Jerusalem limestone. Out of respect for the dead, people place small rocks on the tombs. One source mentions that the Mt. of Olives is the prime location for burial because Jews believe the Messiah will arrive there to resurrect the dead. They may be right.

Near the base of the Mt. of Olives, our tour group stopped at the traditional Garden of Gethsemane, a gated park abounding with many old olive trees, some perhaps 900 years old. Gethsemane means “oil press,” referring to the oil pressed from the olives. Jesus and his disciples often met there. (John 18:2).

Denise with another stranger

The garden is operated by the Franciscan Order. It is a serene, quiet and somber place, where visitors contemplate Christ's agonizing prayers to God, moments before His arrest. "My father, if it be possible, let this cup pass from me; nevertheless, not as I will, but as you will." (Mat. 26:39). Luke records that Christ was so distraught that His sweat was like blood. Our visit to Gethsemane was a time for quiet prayer and reflection. Some of us shed tears as we tried to comprehend the intense sorrow Christ felt the night before His crucifixion.

From Gethsemane, we visited the nearby Church of All Nations (AKA Church of Gethsemane and The Basilica of the Agony), also run by the Franciscans.

1000s of tombs on Mt. of Olive's west slope. Kidron Valley below. Old Jerusalem and Dome of the Rock beyond.

Franciscan inside Gethsemane entrance

At the bottom of the Mount of Olives, we crossed the Kidron Valley to the area of Mt. Zion, not far from the gates to Old Jerusalem. Things got confusing, because we began zigzagging between old buildings and churches, ending up in the Last Supper Room, located above the Tomb of David and near Dormition Abbey (got your bearings?). This is a "traditional" room of the last supper, though there's little evidence to support its authenticity.

Denise photographs gnarly Olive trunk in Gethsemane

From there, we followed tour guide Harrison Cohen through the labyrinth of interconnected buildings, narrow streets and dark passageways (seemed like it) to the fascinating Church of St. Peter in Gallicantu (meaning "cock crow" in Latin). This church is built over the traditional and highly possible location where, the night before his crucifixion, Jesus stood trial before the high priest Caiaphas and the chief priests, scribes and elders. A guardroom and prisoner’s cell, hewn out of bedrock, exist below. Jesus would have been lowered by rope through a narrow shaft into the small cell, where he spent the night before his crucifixion. It is known as the “Sacred Pit” or “Christ’s Prison.” We were able to stand inside the Sacred Pit -- a somber and chilling experience.

Really old, fat olive tree near Church of All Nations

The modern Church of St. Peter in Gallicantu (built 1932), is a Catholic church commemorating Peter’s three denials, which occurred in the courtyard of Caiaphas’s house. The church is located just outside of Old Jerusalem, near the Zion Gate.

Near Gallicantu, we saw actual 1st century steps that descend from Mt. Zion to the Kidron Valley. It is nearly certain that Jesus and his disciples would have used these steps whenever they walked between the Mt. of Olives and Old Jerusalem.

Church of All Nations

Late in the morning we boarded the tour bus near the Kidron Valley and headed for Bethlehem. We'd return to Jerusalem at the end of the day. The bus paused at a checkpoint and we entered Palestinian territory. Harrison stayed in Jerusalem and we picked up a temporary guide, a Palestinian Christian named Isaac.

Really good bread near Mt. Zion

Our group got off the bus and followed Isaac through busy downtown Bethlehem -- our destination being the Church of the Nativity. I felt a little uneasy walking the 1/2 mile or so through Palestinian territory, but it was interesting looking at the people, shops, Arabic culture, etc. We passed by an armed security guard standing proudly in front of a large poster of Yasser Arafat, the leader of the PLO through much of the late 20th century.

The Church of the Nativity is not beautiful from the outside and the tiny entrance is only noticeable because of the long lines in front of it. One must stoop over to get through entrance. They made it small as a security measure to prevent enemy horses and equipment from entering.

Church of St. Peter in Gallicantu

To Christ's prison

Where Jesus imprisoned the night before His crucifixion

The Church of the Nativity, the oldest church in the Holy Land, was built above a cave (the Grotto) where Jesus was very possibly, perhaps "probably" born. What is the evidence? Christian apologist, Justin Martyr (100-165 A.D.), wrote about “a certain cave” where Jesus was born. Also, Origen (185-254 A.D.), wrote that this particular cave was considered by many to be Christ’s birthplace. In 327 A.D., Emperor Constantine’s mother, Helena, ordered the construction of the first church here. So, there is compelling early tradition supporting the authenticity of this site.

The original church was completed in 339 AD under commission of Emperor Constantine. It was destroyed by fire in the 6th century and rebuilt like the original in 565 AD by Byzantine Emperor Justinian. When the Persians invaded in 614 AD, they did not destroy the church. Legend has it that when the invaders saw the beautiful mosaics of the three wise men from the east in Persian clothing, they opted against destroying the church. Therefore, it is the oldest existing Christian church in Israel.

1st century steps used by Christ and Apostles in Mt. Zion

Currently, the Church of the Nativity is owned/operated by three churches: Greek Orthodox, Armenian Orthodox and Roman Catholic. It is overly decorated inside to the point of gaudiness. Chandeliers and other ornaments, donated by Russian Tzars, etc., hang from the high-raftered ceiling. Large beams of light shine across the high ceiling. The walls are covered with paintings, mosaics, crosses, tapestries, religious paraphernalia, and any shiny trinket you can imagine. Evidently the designers have never heard the advice: "Less is more."

Palestinian security in Bethlehem

Downtown Bethlehem

So, the main attraction inside of this church is the Grotto, where Christ was quite possibly born. It is below ground level, and one must wait in a long line to enter. You walk down a narrow, stone stairway leading to the caves. The exact spot of Christ's birth is marked by a metal, 14-point star with clear glass in the middle. The star is embedded in a marble slab. Ornate, candle-lit lanterns hang above it. Also located in the Grotto, a few feet from the birth spot, is the manger, where the newborn Christ was placed.

Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem

Okay, I actually got teary eyed when I saw the birth place. I thought, "Wow, Jesus may have actually been born in this exact spot." It was the most emotional I got during the Israel trip. Would someone hand me a tissue?

We then traveled just outside of Bethlehem to the Shepherds' Fields. This is the traditional area where the shepherds were visited by an angel who announced the birth of the “Savior, who is the Messiah, the Lord.” (Luke 2:8-18). A beautiful chaple stands there. Inside are wonderful paintings depicting the shepherds and the angelic visitor.

Tiny entrance to Church of the Nativity

Newer sanctuary in Church of the Nativity

And so ended day six. Next week's post (day seven) will focus on Old Jerusalem, which includes the Western Wall, Dome of the Rock (Temple Mount), Via Dolrosa, Church of the Holy Sepulcher, and more.